A continuation of the CZ P-10C chronicles, if you will.
It’s been quite awhile since my last post. Fortunately, with time, it allowed for a lot of testing to be done on a number of platforms. Several thousand rounds have been put downrange in my time away. Today, we’ll be going back to the P-10C from CZ-USA. The biggest reason for this is because it has completely replaced the Glock as my everyday concealed carry sidearm.
In a little under a year’s time, I’ve traveled all over the nation and been to numerous ranges to put rounds through the P-10 platform. The rule is that if I can’t make it to the range often, I put more rounds down range. Only two or three times a month? At least 1,000-rounds per trip is normal. Two or three times a weekend? That’s a 350-round case of CCI Blazer 115-grain 9mm per trip. Prior to May 2019, it was the former. After, it was the latter, until COVID-19 hit and the panic buying started.
From May to early October 2019, we’re talking about a low-end 7,000-round count through the handgun. That’s at everything from 5- to 100-yards; for shits-and-giggles, and the occasional demonstration purpose. I try not to keep a round count, but I felt it important in this case.
Roughly eight-months ago, the P-10 started hitching during strings-of-fire and I slowly started diagnosing the issue. To be clear, on the hitching, the P-10 would have random fits of irregular felt-recoil patterns. So, the first step was to do some ammunition testing. I purchased 115-grain Federal, Remington, Fiocchi, Winchester, on top of more CCI Blazer, and bought heavy 147-grain ammunition in the same brands to see if I could emulate the issue. Unfortunately, it was an issue that did not dissipate through the use of alternate brands and heavier bullet weights. It also had a tendency to hem-up subsonic ammunition, while running a suppressor, that had previously held no issues. So, I decided to switch tactics.
The Recoil Spring Assembly
The ammunition didn’t fix the problem, so the next option was to look at the mechanical side of things. In mid-September, I did some shopping around a replacement recoil spring assembly for the OEM part. I was fortunate to have had bought a P-10C that had a steel OEM spring assembly rod instead of the older 2017 plastic model. I originally wanted a self-captured replacement, but there weren’t many options available that I had previously heard about. The OEM model can be disassembled which is one of the reasons why I think I had so much trouble aside from a heavy main spring (20lb factory weight, by my understanding) itself. Why? No amount of tightening kept the screw secured in the guide rod nor did the screw stay put when loosening it.
Which leads us to the new. After a couple of weeks of searching around, where most of it was spent debating and berating out-of-stock markings, I settled on the non-captured GrayGuns Reduced Load Competition spring assembly on the custom CZ guide rod. I received it not long after, ripped the OEM, and threw the GrayGuns assembly into the P-10. It was noted by several sources that it would be better to replace the whole assembly, as opposed to switching out the springs, due to possibly damaging the flange on the OEM main spring rod. I had already been impressed both other offerings from GrayGuns; namely their trigger kits for the P320 handgun system from SIG-Sauer. I love the stock trigger system in the P-10C, but I certainly wouldn’t mind seeing a P-10 trigger system from them either. That aside…
The result? It took care of everything. No more hitching in the felt-recoil pattern. Not in any of the, previously aforementioned, non-suppressed ammunitions fired. I have shot a little Speer Lawman 147GR TMJ through the new spring assembly. The 147gr CCI Blazer (which I’ve had no problems with in the OEM spring assembly) ran perfectly, with the new spring, and held a decent ejection pattern at the 2-o’clock. I had problems with the 165gr Freedom Munitions Hush Round-Nosed SPP, which would Fail-to-Eject with the OEM spring, but now will cycle. The ejection pattern barely clears the chamber, but it cycles casings out properly now.
Performance – Abuse
Overall, there was very little cleaning done past general wipe-downs and lubrication. Even after quite a bit of abuse. So, what did I do? Well, there wasn’t much I didn’t do. I started out by dusting the platform with Colorado sand, then thoroughly burying it in the stuff, and dropping it from chest height… And, then, hucking it downrange like it was an M67 grenade. It brought forth the giggles from me and a lot of shock from several patrons on the next range over.
The dusting and burying of the P-10 didn’t cause any problems. The platform ran as flawlessly as it had clean. However, it was after attempting to use it as a “Glocknade” where slide-lock came up occasionally. It was done on an empty chamber several times. Upon pulling the trigger, the firing pin would drop as normal. However, the slide was locked-up so the question became: “Will it stay locked or cycle with a loaded chamber?” The answer was that it was a single shot handgun in each of the events it would lock-up. There is yet a solid deduction on the cause because it wouldn’t occur in every instance. It’s unclear if there was too much debris in the firearm or if the striker had rotated within the striker channel, due to debris, post-first round firing. In theory, it shouldn’t be mechanical because the first round did effectively fire; it simply didn’t cycle due to slidelock.
How to diagnose the slidelock? Well, you gently persuade it. That is to say: slam the shit out of the elevated aluminum rear sight, against the edge of a nearby object, until it cycles. Then, gas-it-up-and-go to clear the remaining sand out. No damage was done to the aluminum sight and there was no drift in the sight itself. Point-of-Aim to Point-of-Impact stayed the same.
Effect on the overall finish of the P-10C? There are light scuff marks on the top of the slide now, where the slide hit the bench before hooking onto the rear sight. The drop tests on the sand and dirt, littered with rocks and shell casings, did nothing to the finish whatsoever. Neither did the lobbing. No scarring, no chipping, and no subsequent rust.
The CZ P-10C has become somewhat of a project gun: some of it by choice, some not so much, and a bit out of necessity. After my initial purchase of the P-10, and breaking it in to make sure there weren’t any issues similar to what Omaha Outdoors outlined, I decided that there were some items that I more likely, than not, wanted to put on the sidearm.
Presently, I’m debating on making it a Roland Special handgun (a little backstory and parts list to what an RS is in its original form). The toss up is how I want to do it. Do I buy an Optics-Ready model and swap the slides? That would keep me from having to ship off my active daily carry. I’m not partial to the Glock, beyond a logistical use, as I’m interested in buying more P-10s. I would like to avoid the whole ship-and-wait deal, though. The other option is to do just that; and, then it comes down to who I get the millwork done by. There are a lot of good companies out there who can do the job.
The question is: which RMR do I choose? It’s going to be a Trijicon: there isn’t much debate to that. But, because I am running a weapon-light on the platform, there’s solid debate on how well I would see the dot during nighttime carry. I like the idea of a sight that doesn’t require batteries. A Dual-Illuminated model had been the first choice before I found out that they didn’t offer it in red and the dot sizes were considerably larger. I have shot one of the 7.0 Amber Triangles and thoroughly enjoyed the transition of the illumination power simply based on how much light was available. I have also used several variations of the battery-powered models, but am concerned with battery life.
The problem isn’t necessarily with the model of handgun-mounted red-dot offerings. Some of them are built better than others, yes. The main problem is with the battery source. From what I’ve continuously seen, using currently available battery tech, the Trijicon RMR reigns supreme in longevity (and overall durability). But, what we need to see an advancement of the battery technology on the civilian market. Imagine how much better an RMR or an Aimpoint COMP-series could be with such an advancement. It’s that simple. An alternative argument is that the need is negated by Dual-Illum. and a bit of electrical tape. Modern problems call for simple solutions and all that jazz.
All of that aside, the third option is to buy an Optic-Ready model and swap between the two based on day or night use. The thing that I don’t like? The latest P-10s aren’t offered in the older fully-ambidextrous configuration.
Carrying The Weight
First thing was first. I needed a holster to carry it around. So, all at the same time, I decided on what weapon-light that I wanted and then boiled down the available holster options. The options were limited back around August. I still want a couple of G-Code Holsters. However, they still have yet to put out any models for the CZ-USA sidearms.
Because there were no offerings from G-Code, I ended up looking at T.Rex Arms for a couple of Kydex holsters. I wanted one for mounting a light and one without. Seven days later, I had the two chosen Raptor holsters, one a Light-Capable model, and started carrying the P-10C around. The first most notable thing is that the LC holsters are wide: not exactly streamlined, that is to say. For people with smaller, edged frames, it causes discomfort against the hip or lower back (if worn back far enough) while sitting and driving. The bigger the frame of the user, the fewer the issues. If you remove the light from the handgun and put it in the original Raptor, you get a smaller package. Alternatively, you can remove the anchor from the Raptor-LC, but shell’s attachment point still remains. I do a lot of work and traveling around at night, so that’s why I’m generally always carrying the P-10C with a weaponlight on it.
The retention point is around the weaponlight on these holsters: the retention itself is sure and audible when locked into place, but smooth to release when it is time to draw. The form of the Kydex is solid and I did note one hang-up point against the frame of the weaponlight when one goes to reholster their handgun. The belt clip is wide, completely static, and is attached to the shell with two screws.
In short, it’s a start. I will likely look into other options as I find them and we’ll see who comes out on top.
Lights, Camera, Suppression
An important thing about traveling or home defense at night is the ability to properly identify your target. You do not want to misidentify a family member as a home intruder in the middle of the night. It has happened before. Several times, in fact.
I chose the Surefire X300 Ultra-B specifically for this purpose. The weaponlight has a 1000-lumen output and metal T-slot mounting hardware (compared to the polymer Rail-Lock system on the U-A model). Going back to an aforementioned point, the battery life of the 123A-type batteries is only 1.25-hours according to Surefire. From what I’ve seen, they also drain over time even if you’re not using the light at all.
Beyond 10-feet, the light has a nice width to it. The beam will more than adequately enlighten someone, standing in a doorway or down an alley, to a bad decision that they have chosen to make. With a close enough proximity, it is likely damaging to the eyes, as well.
For a couple of years, I had read up on several different weapon-lights and looked into cleaning techniques. Some of them included toothpaste, chapstick, and the simple water and wipe. The best one out of those was the chapstick, but it only worked at about 60-percent cleanliness. If the cordite was caked on already, forget it. The other options didn’t work well. After looking around a little more, I saw a couple of people mention using a pencil eraser and, sure enough, that’s what it took. The pencil eraser, with a little water, works at about 95-percent lens cleanliness and you just throw an eraser block into your range bag if you aren’t running it suppressed. Breach Bang Clear also mentioned that poster putty worked well, but I haven’t tried it.
The one thing that I’ve noticed with X300U-B is that it does stand up to the abuse of being thrown around. One exception to the rule is in the battery door. The little spiral battery tabs the door are easy to break. The system still works, but it may be one of the reasons why the batteries aren’t lasting when the X300 is off for several days at a time. There is a drain somewhere, would be my guess. Others have reported that you can break the battery door hinges easily due to them being molded plastic. I haven’t seen any deformation or cracking in them, so for now, it’s not a worry.
Depending on the sidearm that you run, you may experience reach issues for the toggle switch engagement. I have medium-sized man-hands. Without changing a proper grip, the tip of my index finger barely overlaps the toggle. This means there’s very little leverage to work with to turn the light on and usually always requires an adjustment of the grip. Alternatively, I use my support hand’s thumb to kick the light on. If you can’t get away from using your trigger finger, then hit up Phlster Holsters for an ARC Enhanced WML Switches: the package comes with three sizes of switch tabs for an OEM replacement. Why go this route? Well, Surefire doesn’t make any DG Grip Switch Assemblies for X300 use on CZ handguns. Otherwise, train yourself into the offhand habit.
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